时尚新概念：什么是wellbeing wardrobe？

译介 2023-06-20

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“新三年，旧三年，缝缝补补又三年”的时代早已结束。随着快时尚的流行，人们的衣服越买越多，造成了巨大的浪费与环境问题。今天这篇文章的作者提出了一个叫做“健康衣橱”（wellbeing wardrobe）的新概念。它的定义是什么？又需要如何才能做到呢？我们一起看文章。

Why you need a 'wellbeing wardrobe'

为什么你需要一个“健康衣橱”

If things don't change fast, the fashion industry could use a quarter of the world's remaining global carbon budget to keep warming under 2C by 2050, and use 35% more land to produce fibres by 2030.

为实现到2050年将气温上升控制在2℃以内的目标，我们设立了全球碳预算。如果不马上做出改变，时尚业会花掉全球碳预算剩余四分之一的份额。到2030年，还会增加35%的土地使用面积来生产纤维。

While this seems incredible, it's not. Over the past 15 years, clothing production has doubled while the length of time we actually wear these clothes has fallen by nearly 40%. In the EU, falling prices have seen people buying more clothing than ever before while spending less money in the process.

这听上去有些不可思议，但却是事实。在过去15年里，虽然服装产量翻了一番，我们实际穿戴这些衣物的时间却下降了近40%。在欧盟国家，由于价格下降，人们买的衣服比以前多，花的钱却更少。

This is not sustainable. Something has to give. In our recent report, we propose the idea of a wellbeing wardrobe, a new way forward for fashion in which we favour human and environmental wellbeing over ever-growing consumption of throwaway fast-fashion.

这不是可持续的。必须要有所改变。我们在最近的一份报告中提出了“健康衣橱”的概念，这是时尚业前进的新方向，比起不断购买一次性快时尚商品，它更重视人类和环境的健康。

What would that look like? It would mean each of us cutting how many new clothes we buy by as much as 75%, buying clothes designed to last, and recycling clothes at the end of their lifetime.

这会是什么样呢？这意味着我们每个人购买的服装减少75%，同时购买经久耐用的服装，并在服装使用寿命结束后进行回收。

For the sector, it would mean tackling low incomes for the people who make the clothes, as well as support measures for workers who could lose jobs during a transition to a more sustainable industry.

对于服装行业来说，可能需要解决制衣工人的低收入问题，以及在行业向更可持续过渡时，向面临失业的工人提供扶持措施。

Sustainability efforts by industry are simply not enough

服装行业的可持续发展明显欠缺

Fashion is accelerating. Fast fashion is being replaced by ultra-fast fashion, releasing unprecedented volumes of new clothes into the market.

时尚在加速。超快时尚正在取代快时尚，为市场提供的新衣数量之大前所未有。

Since the start of the year, fast fashion giants H&M and Zara have launched around 11,000 new styles combined.

今年初至今，快时尚巨头H&M和Zara已经合计在全球推出了约1.1万种新款。

Over the same time, ultra-fast fashion brand Shein has released a staggering 314,877 styles. Shein is currently the most popular shopping app in Australia. As you'd expect, this acceleration is producing a tremendous amount of waste.

与此同时，超快时尚品牌Shein已推出314,877款时装，数量令人震惊。Shein目前是澳大利亚最受欢迎的购物应用程序。如你所料，这种生产的加速造成了巨大浪费。

In response, the fashion industry has devised a raft of plans to tackle the issue. The problem is many sustainability initiatives still place economic opportunity and growth before environmental concerns.

为了应对这一问题，时尚业已经制定了一系列解决计划。问题是许多可持续发展倡议仍然将经济机会和经济增长置于环境问题之前。

Efforts such as switching to more sustainable fibres and textiles and offering ethically-conscious options are commendable. Unfortunately, they do very little to actually confront the sector's rapidly increasing consumption of resources and waste generation.

很多努力是值得赞扬的，比如使用更具可持续性的纤维和纺织品以及提供环保的服装选择等。不幸的是，面对该行业快速增长的资源消耗和废物数量，这些举措作用微乎其微。

Here's what we can do to tackle the situation.

我们可以采取的应对措施

1. Limit resource use and consumption

1. 限制资源使用和消耗

We need to have serious conversations between industry, consumers and governments about limiting resource use in the fashion industry. As a society, we need to talk about how much clothing is enough to live well.

展开行业、消费者和政府之间关于限制时尚业资源使用的严肃对话。作为一个社会整体，我们需要讨论多少衣服就足以满足美好生活这一话题。

On an individual level, it means buying fewer new clothes, as well as reconsidering where our clothes come from. Buying second-hand clothes or using rental services are ways of changing your wardrobe with lower impact.

于个人而言，这意味着少买新衣的同时，斟酌衣服的获得渠道。购买二手衣服或使用租赁服务可以改变衣物选择，并减少环境影响。

2. Expand the slow fashion movement

2. 推广慢时尚运动

The growing slow fashion movement focuses on the quality of garments over quantity, and favours classic styles over fleeting trends.

正在兴起的慢时尚运动更注重服装的质量而非数量，推崇经典款式而非转瞬即逝的时尚潮流。

We must give renewed attention to repairing and caring for clothes we already own to extend their lifespan, such as by reviving sewing, mending and other long-lost skills.

我们必须重新重视旧衣物的修理和护理，来延长它们的寿命，例如重新发扬缝纫、修补和其他早已失传的技能。

3. New systems of exchange

3. 新的交换体系

The wellbeing wardrobe would mean shifting away from existing fashion business models and embracing new systems of exchange, such as collaborative consumption models, co-operatives, not-for-profit social enterprises and B-corps.

健康衣橱意味着摆脱现存的时尚商业模式，拥抱新的交换体系，如合作消费模式、合作社、非营利性社会企业以及共益企业。

What are these? Collaborative consumption models involve sharing or renting clothing, while social enterprises and B-corps are businesses with purposes beyond making a profit, such as ensuring living wages for workers and minimising or eliminating environmental impacts.

它们是什么？合作消费模式包括分享或租赁服装，而社会企业和共益企业并不仅仅以盈利为目的，它们还旨在保障工人的生活工资和尽量降低或消除环境影响。

There are also methods that don't rely on money, such as swapping or borrowing clothes with friends and altering or redesigning clothes in repair cafes and sewing circles.

其他不依赖金钱的方法包括，与朋友交换或借用衣物，在修理咖啡馆和缝纫圈子聚会时更改或重新设计衣物等。

4. Diversity in clothing cultures

4. 服装文化的多样性

Finally, as consumers we must nurture a diversity of clothing cultures, including incorporating the knowledge of indigenous fashion design, which has respect for the environment at its core.

最后，作为消费者，我们必须培养服装文化多样性，包括融入本土时尚设计知识，尊重环境是这些知识的核心。

Communities of exchange should be encouraged to recognise the cultural value of clothing, and to rebuild emotional connections with garments and support long-term use and care.

鼓励交换社区的人们认识服装的文化价值，重建与服装的情感联系，同时支持服装的长期使用和护理。

今日词汇

carbon budget 碳预算

fast fashion 快时尚

sustainability / səˌsteɪnəˈbɪləti / n. 可持续性

co-operative n. 合作社

not-for-profit adj. 非营利的

B-corp 共益企业

repair cafes 修理咖啡馆

sewing circles 缝纫圈子

名词解释

1. B-corp 共益企业